If you’re new to sewing, you can find so many circle skirt tutorials out there. You can whip up a half circle, quarter circle, or go all out with a full circle for that extra twirl factor. For an easy circle skirt calculation, check out the handy tool on the Mood Fabrics website here. Just input your desired skirt length, waist measurement, and preferred fullness, and it will calculate the fabric yardage and radius needed.

The fabric I used is a mint-colored chiffon with charming black and white floral prints. Since it’s on the sheer side, I paired it with a gorgeous shimmery georgette-like fabric. I bought this fabric ages ago, so I can’t recall the exact composition! If you’re just starting out, I’d suggest using cotton instead. Dealing with this slippery fabric nearly drove me bonkers!

The Sewing Process

I used a half-circle skirt pattern, with the lining shorter than the main fabric to keep it neatly tucked inside. The circle skirt tutorial by Paige Handmade gives excellent guidance on how to install a lining with an invisible zipper.

I basted the back seam until it reached the bottom of the zipper, and then sewed it down with a regular stitch to the hem of the skirt. Then, I hand-basted the zipper to the main fabric’s seam allowance, ensuring there was sufficient room for the waistband. I removed the basting stitches on the back seam and sewed the zipper in place.

Next, I sewed the back seam of the lining just like the main fabric, pressed it, and removed the basting stitches. Then, with the wrong sides together, I hand-stitched the lining’s seam allowance to the seam allowance of the main skirt with the zipper.

After installing the zipper, I sewed a narrow waistband that included a small flap where I added a closure.

Hang before Hemming

I let the skirt hang overnight to make sure the fabric could settle and stretch along the bias. The bias is the diagonal direction of woven fabric. Ideally, you’d want it to hang for at least 24 hours, but I was impatient. But if you don’t let it hang, your hem will be very uneven. I was surprised by how much certain sections stretched out the next day! Once the skirt settled into place, I trimmed off any uneven sections.

Finally, time to tackle the skirt hem! Honestly, I’m not a big fan of hemming rounded edges. Hemming curved areas can be tricky because as you move outward, the circumference grows, needing more fabric to fit into a smaller area. Dealing with the slippery fabric made it even more challenging! But the secret is plenty of ironing and loads of patience. I’m sure there are better tips and tricks out there.

In the end, it was totally worth it! The skirt turned out so dainty and flowy. I’ve worn it countless times to gatherings and dinner dates. Check out my other beginner-friendly project ideas here, here, and here!

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The post Make a Beginner Friendly Half Circle Skirt with Lining first appeared on Chelle's Happy Corner.

Among the assortment of pattern-free projects, the DIY Trace Dress caught my eye! The process involves a super simple method: tracing your favorite fitted T-shirt (hence the name “Trace” Dress) for the bodice and cutting a long and wide enough rectangle for a gathered skirt.

The Bodice

The fabric I chose for this dress is a polyester blend with seersucker details that I thrifted some time ago. But I needed to incorporate a lining fabric because the fabric is quite sheer. I used the burrito method to line the bodice, hiding the seam allowances inside. It was a bit tricky since this technique is typically used for sleeveless bodices. I ended up doing some slip-stitching on the inside to perfect it. The result? Flawless on the outside and surprisingly neat on the inside!

While working on the bodice, I accidentally snipped my lining fabric and it started to fray—bummer! I raided my stash of laces and trims, found a few embroidered flowers, and patched up the holes. I ended up loving the result! It added a unique touch, and now it has its own little story.

The Skirt Portion

For the main fabric, I gathered the skirt with double-basting stitches and then attached it to the bodice. I didn’t gather the skirt lining as I didn’t want the dress to look too poofy. So I simply extended the length of the T-shirt bodice straight down to the hem of the skirt.

Just when I thought I finished the dress, I started walking and kept tripping over it! Turns out, the skirt lining wasn’t wide enough and kept restricting my walk. I used a seam ripper to undo part of the side seam down to about knee length, then sewed in a side slit.

The dress is so flowy and comfy to wear. I’ve already worn it several times, including on my trip to Japan! If you love making simple dresses like this, you’ll enjoy the waist ribbon dress I recently shared—it’s basically a rectangle!

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I scored a basic white rib knit fabric from Walmart’s fabric remnant section. Inspired by a top I spotted at Aritzia, the Sculpt Knit Sweetheart Tube Top, I decided to dive into making my first-ever strapless bustier tank!

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, which means that while I am not paid to promote certain items, I may earn a small commission should you purchase items through these links at no cost to you.

The Process

I decided to try my hand at self-drafting this pattern but ended up making numerous adjustments along the way. The knit fabric turned out to be quite thin and a bit see-through when stretched, so I double-layered it for a nicer look.

The pattern started with just the front and back bodice pieces. However, I didn’t anticipate how stretchy the knit fabric was. So I had to gradually taper the side seams and try it on multiple times until it fits just right!

Thinner knit fabrics are prone to stretching out of shape as you sew, especially when sewing in the direction of the fabric’s stretch. Here are a couple of tricks I did when sewing to minimize wavy seams so the garment lays nicely against your body:

• Used a zig zag stitch. The gaps between the zigzag stitches create flexible seams and stop seams from popping if you stretch the fabric.
• Used a ballpoint needle. The blunt tip prevents skipped stitches, puckered seams, and damaged fabric.
• Applied the magical wash-away tape along the sweetheart neckline. This stabilizes the fabric and prevents it from stretching out when sewn over it.
• Be mindful not to stretch or put pressure on the fabric. Let the machine do the work, gently guide the fabric, and keep the fabric relaxed.
• Gently pulled thread tails at the start. This keeps the fabric from being sucked into the needle plate and jamming the machine.
• Steamed the seams. Even when you’re extra careful, some seams can get a little stretched out. This helps flatten some of the wavy seams when I accidentally stretch the fabric as I sew.

Sweetheart Neckline

The wash-away tape is a game-changer, particularly at the sweetheart neckline where it aligns with the fabric’s stretch! The double-sided tape doesn’t gunk up the needle, and it washes off easily with water. I did a test piece with and without the tape, and as expected, the one without came out ripply and could not be fixed with iron and steam! I used the same knit fabric to finish the neckline with bias binding.

Lettuce Hem

If you’ve read my previous post on making my little black dress, you’ll know how I enjoy incorporating those adorable lettuce hem details! I used a thicker knit fabric for the little black dress and matched it with the same colored thread for the lettuce hem.

Given the thinner knit fabric and my choice of black contrasting thread, I adjusted to a much shorter (0.3) and wider (3.5) zigzag stitch length to keep the stitches tightly spaced and prevent any white fabric from showing through.

I positioned the fabric with a folded edge near the needle to ensure it stitched over the hem properly. As I sewed, I stretched the fabric with both hands and gently guided its movement to fill in any gaps. Keep in mind that the more you stretch the fabric, the more pronounced the wavy hem will appear. If you’re a visual learner like me, you can watch the video tutorial here.

Although the construction for the knit top with the sweetheart neckline and contrasting lettuce hem was fairly simple, I learned a lot throughout the process.

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The post Make a Sweetheart Knit Tube Top with Lettuce Edge first appeared on Chelle's Happy Corner.

No Need to Pattern Draft

Take a letter-sized paper (A4 works too) and place it on top of your main fabric. Cut the main fabric piece to match the height of the paper and triple its width (25.5 in x 11 in), and round the corners. Do the same for the lining. For the side tie, cut 2 pieces of ribbons approximately 30 in each. I used 1/2 inch seam allowance for this project.

The Process

Align the main fabric with the lining fabric with the right sides together. Place the ribbons between the layers on the right side, centering them. Sew around the edges, leaving a small opening unstitched. After sewing, trim the excess fabric from the edges. Turn the fabric right side out, then press it flat. Topstitch around the edges, except for the small opening you left unstitched.

Use an erasable fabric marker to draw your designs (easier when it’s still flat); then, insert stuffing until it’s fluffy enough. After that, close up the small opening you left unstitched in the previous step and top stitch. Sew over your drawn designs. Tip: use short stitches if your designs have a lot of curves. Use a fray check to seal the ribbon edges. And you’re done!

You can also check out a mini video tutorial on my TikTok here.

Protect your Books and More

The soft pillow padding will keep your books cozy and safe on the go! Its wide dimensions and long side ties let you wrap up books of all shapes and sizes – maybe even a whole stack! Plus, it’s not just for books; I’ve found it’s perfect for protecting delicate items like camera lenses too! This DIY also makes a fantastic handmade gift idea for your fellow bookworm and travel-lover friends!

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, which means that while I am not paid to promote certain items, I may earn a small commission should you purchase items through these links at no cost to you.

Marking the shirring lines

I measured the desired length for my skirt, adding 3.5 inches for ease and seam allowances. The extra allowance ensures I avoid any unexpected shortness in the finished skirt! Afterward, I began marking shirring lines parallel to the selvage across the entire fabric. I alternated between lines 1 inch and 1/4 inch apart to create texture. Make sure to mark these lines on the right side of the fabric! The shirring elastic will be placed in the bobbin and sewn on the wrong side, facing away from you. Please learn from my mistake and don’t waste your precious sewing time!

Marking the shirring lines

This project is essentially 90% shirring. If you plan to recreate it, I recommend winding multiple bobbins with shirring elastics before you begin to avoid interruptions during your work. I found myself having to switch out the bobbin every couple of rows.

If you’re new to shirring, practice on scrap fabric and watch tutorials to get comfortable with your sewing machine’s handling of elastic thread. Many tutorials recommend winding a bobbin with elastic thread by hand without stretching it. However, I had to stretch the elastic thread to gather my fabric properly, for some reason.

Before shirring the last few rows, I hemmed the bottom and top parts of the dress. Hemming too close to the shirred lines can be challenging. I found using a narrow hem foot to be a time-saver! You can check out more of my favorite sewing supplies here. If the skirt ends up too long for you, you can adjust the length before hemming it.

Finishing the dress

Once I finished the shirring (phew!), I measured where I wanted the top of the dress to sit and then folded the rest of the shirred fabric inward to create a lining. I opted for a double layer for added comfort, ensuring the elastic threads wouldn’t rub against me and allowing me to go braless.

I draped the shirred fabric around myself to determine the placement of the side seams. Then, I basted the side seams together, stitching straight along the bodice and flaring out towards the end of the skirt (see picture). I tried it on before sewing the side seams with French seams. You want the bodice to fit snugly enough. If it’s too tight, the elastic will easily break, but if it’s too loose, you’ll end up with unflattering “bubbly” pockets around the bodice. If you prefer a strapless dress, you can stop at this point.

Using the scraps to make sleeve straps

After sewing the side seams, I trimmed away the excess fabric and repurposed the remnants to craft off-shoulder straps for the sleeves. With the remaining fabric, I cut two long rectangular strips, each tapering to a point at both ends, approximately 1 inch wide and 33.5 inches long.

I sewed the sides together and flipped the fabric right side out. I then secured the top middle of the strap to the side of the dress with a very tight zigzag stitch (satin stitch) for durability.

Adding a bow detail to complete the look

To finish, I added a small red grosgrain ribbon bow to the center of the dress. I sealed the tails of the ribbon with a liquid seam sealant to avoid fraying.

You can also check out mini video tutorials on my TikTok here and here .

The dress hugs me in all the right places, and I can adjust the droopiness of the sleeves by how I tie them. The lining added that extra layer of comfort! I will continue adding lining to future shirred dress/top projects. I also have the option to tuck the straps into the dress for a strapless look.

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The post Make an Off-the-Shoulder Shirred Mini Dress (Easy, No Pattern Required) first appeared on Chelle's Happy Corner.

The Pattern Drafting and Sewing Process

The self-drafting process was relatively quick and straightforward. I followed the mini slip dress tutorial by Essentials Club but modified the neckline from straight to scalloped. I spaced out the scallops evenly when drafting. To prepare the pattern pieces, I drafted the front and back panels, the corresponding facings, and the strap pieces. If you’re curious, hop over to my previous post where I created a bow mini dress using a similar pattern, accompanied by a more detailed diagram and my measurements.

The sewing process was also relatively fast, except for sewing the scalloped neckline. I outlined the scallops with an erasable fabric pen and sewed along the marked lines using short stitch lengths. After stitching the scallops, I trimmed the seam allowance with pinking shears and carefully clipped into the points between the scallops using sharp embroidery scissors. Be careful not to cut the stitches!

I used French seams for the sides and understitched the facings on the non-scalloped areas to prevent the facings from rolling out of place.

The Final Touches

Because dresses with pockets rule, I decided to incorporate matching scalloped patch pockets at the front of the dress. First, I sketched a rough rectangle and traced the scalloped edge from the neckline to the top of the pocket. Then, I cut two layers for each fabric— one for the main fabric and one for the lining. I then sewed them together, using short stitches along the scalloped edge, and left a small opening on the non-scalloped part of the pocket.

After trimming the edges carefully, I flipped the pocket right side out, neatly tucked the small opening, and sewed the pocket directly onto the front of the dress. Make sure the pockets on each side are sewn at the same height and evenly spaced.

The Finished Dress

The finished dress turned out super cute! My friends think the patch pockets look like a couple of tulips haha. As you may recall from my previous blog post, I adore adjustable shoulder straps—they offer endless styling possibilities.

I envision this dress as the ideal beach attire. It would also make for an adorable beach cover-up that you can effortlessly slip on and off. The fabric is medium weight, giving the dress a more structured appearance. If you prefer a flowier look, opt for lightweight fabric instead.

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The post Make a Mini Dress with a Scalloped Edge (Self-Draft) first appeared on Chelle's Happy Corner.

• Pattern: self-drafted using the mini slip dress tutorial by Essentials Club as a guide
• Difficulty: beginner
• Time: can be done within 2 days
• Tip: Use a narrow hem foot and a gathering presser foot to sew the ruffled piece faster. Use a Microtex needle for delicate fabric.
• General take: Love that the adjustable straps can create many looks
• My favorite sewing supplies: here

Last summer, I scored a mint-colored silky fabric at the thrift store. I love how shimmery it looks when the light hits at different angles. I had a bias-cut dress in mind but I was intimidated by how delicate the fabric was. So I put it in the wash, stored it away, and didn’t think about it for a while.

Fast forward a year later, I felt confident enough to sew slippery fabric. I was curious about the fabric content so I asked people on Tiktok, who suggested it could be some silk fabric. So I did a burn test and it is silk! Unfortunately, as I was about to cut the fabric I noticed a lot of snags and tiny holes in random areas of the fabric. Either the fabric already had defects at the time of purchase, or I ruined it in the wash, or both. I should be more careful handling dainty fabric in general.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, which means that while I am not paid to promote certain items, I may earn a small commission should you purchase items through these links at no cost to you.

Pattern Drafting

I couldn’t make a bias-cut dress without including too many defect areas. Those Ganni bow mini dress pics kept popping up all over my socials (along with the Ganni blouse)! I love the cute design and thought it would look gorgeous in this silky fabric. I used the mini slip dress tutorial by Essentials Club as a guide and self-drafted my pattern. The pattern pieces needed are:

• 2 main panels
• 2 facings
• 4 straps
• 2 long ruffle strips

Below are the measurements I used. You can adjust the ruffle size and strap length to your liking. I made 4 straps to make them adjustable. The facings are the same width as the panel. If this is your first time drafting the pattern, I recommend making a toile or mock-up first to make sure the dress fits you nicely.

The Sewing Process

This pattern is easy to sew. I invested in a narrow hemming foot and a gathering foot, making hemming and gathering the long ruffle piece so much quicker! So the only time-consuming part was when I had to flip the thin straps right side out carefully.

I French-seamed everything to provide extra durability to the seams when dealing with fine fabric. I sewed the side seams for the main panels and the facings first. After that, I sandwiched the straps between the main panel and facing, right sides together, and sewed them. Once the straps were installed, I under-stitched the facings. The facing was showing from the inside of a garment on the sides as the area where the main panels and facings meet was bulky. So I hand-tacked those areas. Lastly, I gathered the ruffle pieces and attached them to the front and back panels of the dress!

Also, look how mesmerizing this fabric is when blue lighting hits different surfaces.

I really like this dress! I feel like you can dress it up or down. You can wear it on its own or with a top underneath. A black top and stockings with a shimmery ruffle-y dress would look classy. The separate front and back straps are adjustable, making it versatile. You can position the bow at the front, middle, or back or crisscross the straps too! The possibilities are endless. The crisscross tie version looks sexy but still cute at the back! Which look is your favorite?

Here is the finished garment in full view! I cannot wait to wear this out! It looks and feels luxurious.

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The post Make a Bow Mini Dress with Ruffle Edge (Self Draft) first appeared on Chelle's Happy Corner.